Weeks 7 & 8: An Ecuadorian Way of Conversation and Adios a Quito

Tuesday, October 16 – Monda,y October 29

¡Hola! Happy to be here for another week of sharing in this my final day in Quito for the next 5 weeks. Prepping to leave Quito has been quite a busy time; therefore this post covers my past two weeks of activity. The end of the ‘classes’ section of the academic program brought a few tests to take and essays to write over the past week. Additionally, it was a busy time hanging out with friends in Quito before we all go our separate ways tomorrow.

More than before, my social interactions during this time have been with Ecuadorians rather than my ‘gringo’ friends. In this sense, I have taken the opportunity to observe the fascinating aspects of Ecuadorian conversation and how it forms an important part of the Latin American culture. A few weeks ago, my Spanish professor informed our class about his perception of the priorities in conversation amongst the people here. In terms of topics of conversations, his order of popularity was as follows: 1) family, 2) food, 3) problems/issues, 4) recreation. Initially, I had a hard time believing an order like this could actually be observed or justified, but as I become more engrained into the Ecuadorian life, the culture-conversation connection is obvious.

Two Friday’s ago, I partook in what has been one of my favorite yet most simple experiences since being in the country. The host-brother of my good friend Emma, an MSID student, was truing 18 years old. Eighteen is the most important age in Ecuador, the 21 of the United States if you will, because it is the legal age to drive, vote, drink, and smoke, not to mention be considered an adult. Therefore, in true Ecuadorian style, their family was using the whole week to celebrate this momentous occasion with multiple parties and the like. Most important, though, was the surprise party that was being thrown on Friday night as more than 20 relatives were invited. I and one other friend of Emma’s had the privilege of attending as well. The night’s events not only revealed, though conversation, a cultural enlightenment of values, but were also a perfect example of the first two values in action- family and food.

Again, in true Ecuadorian fashion, the surprise party was supposed to begin at 7pm, but relatives didn’t start arriving until about 8 and the birthday boy finally showed up around 9:30. For the next 3 hours, though, spirited conversation, plenty of joking, lots of laughter, and an abundance of food defined the atmosphere. While my comprehension at times could not keep up with the rapid-fire of Spanish, I still felt like I understood more than just words.

And, of course, the big four topics all came up during the evening. First of all, how are the cousins? What about Grandma Margarita who couldn’t make it tonight? How have the children been enjoying the new school year? Even though it seemed like practically the entire family was in each other’s presence, there was no lack of family talk that night. Second, the food. How delicious is this rice! How did you ever prepare this? Third, there are always plenty of issues for Ecuadorians to talk about. Can you believe the results of the Asemblea Constituyente? Did you hear about those 8 accidents within a two hour span in Quito yesterday? Why would the government ever give in to let Santa Elena become its own providence? Finally, there’s the fun stuff: the soccer scene, travels, nightlife, and the likes.

Perhaps even more interesting, though, are the topics that are almost never discussed by Ecuadorians. In a country that is almost 95% Catholic on paper, the issue of religion is, for all intents and purposes, never discussed outside of the church walls. It is apparently a touchy subject for a lot of Ecuadorians who may be ashamed of not practicing a religion that asks for a weekly commitment to mass. Also rarely touched is the topic of work. It is very strange to her anybody talk about their career ambitions or daily work routine outside of the office, therefore marking a great difference between our way of conversation and theirs. For example, a few weeks ago my host-sister began a teaching job in 4^th grade, but when I asked my mother what subjects exactly she would be teaching, she literally had no idea.

Before even coming to Ecuador, I knew the Latin American culture was one focused on family, food, and enjoying the simple things in life. Now in coming here and actually being a part of the culture, I have seen how the ways of conversation amongst the people reflect their values in everyday life. It also becomes clear that the topics of conversation in America reflect our priorities. Sometimes, we are a culture that gets caught up in doing and doing without taking time out to enjoy some of the simpler things in life. I find it no surprise, therefore, that a lot of our conversation focuses around work and our busy daily lives.

Now, as I am preparing to leave Quito, my thoughts are most of excitement and anticipation. These two experiences will be so different that I am essentially ending one chapter of my life and starting another one. I have thoroughly enjoyed the city of Quito, but at the same time it is a major population center and therefore still hard to escape the go-go-go mentality even in this Latin America culture. Tomorrow, the readjustment process begins again. Please stay tuned.

Finally, I leave you with a few pictures from Mitad del Mundo, a popular tourist destination located, of course, on the equator. I traveled with Emma and her parents- the same wonderful family that hosted the birthday party. My travels over the past weekend also involved riding the only operating train in Ecuador which carves through the Andes and scales up the “Devil’s Nose.” With a 7 hour train ride and 10 hours in bus to get to and return from the train station, I was riding in some form of transportation for 17 hours during a 32 hour vacation! Hope you enjoy the rest of your week!

Your typical cheesy photo

Week 6: A Beachy Experience

Tuesday, October 9 – Monday, October 15

Hello good friends, another warm welcome to this week’s blog. I hope you had as much fun celebrating the Independence of Guayaquil as I did. I am learning that the people of Ecuador love take advantage of any special event or anniversary by celebrating. Guayaquil is the largest city of Ecuador, and on the 9^th of October it celebrated 183 years of independence. In fact, the whole country celebrated this occasion with a “feriado,” or national holiday, later in the week on Friday. Add a World Cup 2010 preliminary qualifying game with Venezuela and you have a weekend to remember. I did my part to celebrate, heading out to the coast with what seemed like the rest of the country. It was an experience that helped experience more of the beautiful diversity- and unfortunate realities- of the country.

The place of destination was Tonsupa, a small beach town located in the providence of Esmeraldas. The feel of the region was noticeably different from the mountainous Sierra region that I am accustomed to. Everything moved at a faster pace- even on the beach where things are normally more relaxed. Vendors would hassle you more here, restaurants would compete harder for your business, and taxi drivers with empty cars would stop to ask you if you needed a ride. Clearly, the allure of the beach and the holiday weekend contributed to this sense of urgency. Surprisingly enough, though, this was not a popular ‘gringo’ (the common word for white foreigner) destination. Usually a high level of activity indicates a large number of gringos, but in this case the tourist population was natives. All this may have contributed to an unusual tension that I felt throughout the weekend.

Despite the fast-paced environment, our group still found time to enjoy ourselves through many of the traditions that come with being at the beach. Fresh seafood and coconut drinks were everywhere you turned, and you could choose to take a nap or enjoy a beer in one of the countless hammocks lining the sand. Soccer and volleyball was also a popular activity for the natives, and I didn’t mind joining in. During the night, the beach cavanas, little huts stationed in the sand, pumped out the salsa and regatón music loud enough that the beats from neighboring cavanas were impossible to distinguish as people danced the night away. Best of all, very accommodating and warm ocean water welcomes you in to enjoy the waves crashing against your body.

However, that tension I was speaking about earlier unfortunately turned into a moment of fear and frustration on our second night. Two separate incidents of muggings in our group within a 7 hour span bring perspective to some harsh realities in a sometimes too-real paradise. I was present the second time when two young adolescents- one with a broken glass bottle and the other with part of a seatbelt- approached us as we were walking back to our apartment from the beach- about a 10 minute walk. Thankfully, no one was injured in our group, but it’s an experience that leaves lasting images in your mind and weakens your trust in fellow human beings.

The most interesting part of the experience, though, was observing the reactions of Ecuadorians to the muggings. This turns out to be such a common occurrence in the country that the response of people to my story was more of commonplace or even boredom rather that surprise or concern. When others in my group told their respective host-families, the reactions were similar. Some families even jokingly poked fun at my friends. A cultural difference indeed. Even more frustrating, though, was that the first- and maybe only- question that people would ask was if the robbers were ‘negros’ (blacks). Here the present- but often denied- racism of the blanco (white) and mestizo (indigenous and white mixed) shows its ugly head. The stereotype has roots in the fact that the providence of Esmeraldas has the highest concentration of negros in the country.

On a more positive note, I have solidified my internship site over the past week. I will be serving in Yunguilla, the community of 50 families I spoke of a few weeks ago. I honestly have no idea what my work will specifically consist of, but the important thing is that there are only 2 very small offices in the village with one computer (without internet). Therefore, it will be a work experience unlike any I have had, but most importantly, an experience in living outside of the fast-paced and information-cluttered world as I have known it. It should provide for some good stories to share with you all in the future!

Until that point, take care and enjoy every moment!

Week 5: A Handshake and a Kiss on the Cheek

Tuesday, October 2 – Monday, October 8

As the weeks pass here in Ecuador, the small yet profound cultural tendencies are beginning to have more of any impact on me and my global perspective. But first, very warm greetings to all of you as I hope you are having a fabulous day. The fact that I almost forgot to start off this post with salutations perfectly illustrates a simple lesson with great importance that has become clear to me over the past week. How often are we in such a hurry or have so many things of ‘substance’ to say that we forget to extend a welcome to those is our physical (or digital) presence? The importance of acknowledging the presence of someone cannot be underestimated.

In the Latin American and Ecuadorian culture, I had been told and causally observed the importance of salutations. However, in a series of visits to rural organizations as part of the ‘microfinance track’ of the academic program and in my other travels over the weekend, the act of greeting and initial conversation made a lasting impression in my mind. Throughout the daily course of life in this country, every encounter and departure with friends, family, or acquaintances involves the customary action of recognition. Between two females or a male and a female, this entails a soft hug and a simultaneous kiss on opposite cheeks. Between two males, the action is a firm handshake sometimes accompanied by a one-armed hug or pat-on-the-back.

In ‘our’ culture usually a wave or nod will do, especially in large groups. Not the case in Ecuador- at times during the past week we would be in meeting with 10 or more people when someone would walk in late, but instead of the meeting continuing without interruption, we would pause so that the individual could make their way around to greet every single person. Undoubtedly, this act sends the critical message to every person in the room that their presence is more important than whatever topic is being discussed.

Most times, the greeting is just the beginning of a longer process of acclimation and general concern over the well-being of a person. How are you doing? How’s the family? How are you handling this rainy, cold weather? (The rainy part is true, the cold part not so much…) One-word answers are generally not accepted here. I have a friend back in MN whom I wish I communicated with more because of his generally concern for a person’s state of being. It sure is a good feeling when someone is willing to take 5 minutes out of their day to listen to how your day is going with genuine concern.

This past Sunday evening, I found myself in Cotacachi, a rather small town in rural Ecuador, after returning from a five hour hike around the rim of a volcanic crater lake (see pictures below). The events that transpired that night bring light to and expand upon this aspect of Ecuadorian culture. As we returned from our excursion, I took the bit of downtime we had to explore around the town and buy some postcards. In the postcard shop, the clerk struck up a casual conversation with me that lasted for more than ½ hour. It turns out we had more in common than I would have ever expected, as she studied for two years in Richmond, VA, the city where I spent the past summer working. What’s more, she invited my friends and I over to her house after dinner!

She also recommended a great restaurant that proved to be the biggest surprise of the evening. When we entered the restaurant, there was only one other party there, but it was a group of about twenty. We came to find out that about half the group was from the US and the other half was indigenous families, and they were partaking in some kind of partnership or exchange program. After they had finished their meal, which was about halfway through ours, the music in the restaurant suddenly got louder and the whole group began to dance salsa. I must say that although the music was a little load, I was feeling the excitement as salsa has become an addiction of mine since visiting some of the salsatecos in Quito. After we finished our meal, we decided to get up and join the party, dancing and sharing in the fun for nearly 2 more hours. By this time, it was too late to go visit our new friend, but her simple friendliness and outreach had made an impact on me. It was clear Ecuadorians were a people who put conversation and valued time with others above their concerns for time and schedules. How else can you explain a group of 20 getting up after a meal and dancing for 2+ hours? Oh, and by the way, when we left the restaurant every person in our group personally gave each of the 20 the farewell custom.

Halfway around the Laguna Cuicocha

Another great highlight of the weekend was experiencing the famous outdoor market of Otavalo on Saturday. It is one of the greatest spectacles I have witnessed in Ecuador, as the night before the streets are completely empty, but by 6am the next morning, thousands upon thousands of indigenous vendors have filled the streets and plazas of the town with spectacular hand-made crafts. It is a testament to the great pride, tradition, and culture of an important ethnicity of Ecuadorian people. The picture below does not do the size of the market justice… it is probably 10 times this size!

Other fantastic sights within walking distance of Otavalo

Part of the indigenous family we stayed with as a part of our Microfinance Field Trip

With that, I wish you a very enjoyable rest of your day, and send you off with a handshake if you’re a gentleman or a kiss on the cheek if you’re a lady.

Week 4: Politics- The Same in Any Language

Tuesday, September 25 – Monday, October 1

Time is passing very quickly once again… already ¼ through with my time here in Ecuador. As I have mentioned in almost every past blog, Ecuador is beginning the monumental political process of drafting a new constitution through the election of an “Asemblea Constituyente” (Constitutional Assembly). Even though it is the country’s 19^th constitution, this is a major event in history for the people of Ecuador. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to observe the election of this assembly on Sunday and witness how another country holds their elections.

Perhaps the most interesting facet of Ecuador’s political system is the obligatory vote of all legal citizens, with the exception of a few select groups such as military personnel or those with a mobility-limiting illness. Coming from a country which celebrates a 50% voter turnout, I began to consider the consequences, both positive and negative, of the mandatory vote. Surly, it promotes more widespread citizen concern in government and state affairs, but I’m not sure if this is solely a phenomenon that occurs around the times of elections. Without a doubt, I have seen a definite passion from many Ecuadorians in their discussion of politics. In addition to this, it intuitively would force potential candidates to focus on issues that pertain to all demographics, not just those who vote in strong numbers. On the other hand, there are surly those citizens with an apathetic attitude towards politics whose vote would be uniformed, thus defying the underlying principle of democracy.

The other big point of discussion in Ecuador with the obligatory vote appears to be the right to vote of illiterate citizens. I may have stated in an earlier blog that the illiteracy rate in Ecuador is 80%; luckily I was misinformed on this statistic and it is actually 15%. Nonetheless, this topic of discussion is quite controversial, especially amongst my family. Those in opposition of this right claim than illiterates, because they cannot read, do not have the ability to become informed voters and hence have a negative impact on election results because of their ‘ignorance.’ Unfortunately, it seems that many middle- and upper-class families hold this viewpoint. From my perspective, the illiterate population has resources available to become informed voters such as the television and radio. Granted these may not always be the most objective sources, but I wonder how many other voters take advantage of printed candidate info, especially with 1000+ candidates to sift through in every providence.

Another quirky thing about Ecuador’s election process is the prohibition of the public sale of alcohol in the days leading up to the election. With the election held on Sunday, the ban started on Friday morning at 12:01am and lasted until Monday at noon. And with the ban, Quito seemed to turn into a ghost town during the evenings as streets usually filled with nightlifers were vacant. The logic behind the law: ensure all citizens are in a tranquil state of mind to consciously make decisions.

Before I go any further, here is a quick overview of how the Constitution Assembly and the elections are working. In total, there are 130 seats in the assembly- 24 filled by national candidates and the rest by providential candidates (Ecuador has 22 providences, and the number of candidates per providence logically depends on its population). Between the two levels, national and local, exist approximately 35 political parties and/or movements which are called ‘listas.’ Each ‘lista’ is identified by both a name and number and is only allowed to run the as many candidates as there are available seats on the national or local level (they can’t run 40 national candidates for the 24 seats). In January, the elected assembly will convene in a new building specifically constructed for the purpose of the assembly and begin to draft the new constitution. They will have 6 months to complete the project with the option of extending it another 3.

So now on to the actual voting process, which I observed as I accompanied my family to the polls on Sunday morning. In all reality, it wasn’t that much different than the US- in fact, for my family, it was a very quick process since they all voted ‘en plancha,’ meaning all for the same ‘lista.’ And the results? Lista 35, which is the Alianza Pais group sponsored by the current President Rafael Correa, won nearly 70% of the seats in the assembly. Most Ecuadorians I have talked to are positive about the results of the election, saying it signifies the people are asking for a change. Even more important is the anticipated change will happen peacefully, which few Latin American countries have been able to achieve. The reason people are so confident in a positive change is the fact that Alianza Pais is not a mainstream political party in Ecuador; instead it was formed to sponsor the presidential campaign of Correa. Moreover, the traditional powerhouse parties in Ecuador have started to lose support in a big way. In any case, when the constitution is all said and done, it will be interesting to see if the government will have the ability to actually implement and enforce the changes proposed by the constitution- a problem currently existing in Ecuador.

However, like in any country, with politics always comes controversy and never consensus. Ecuador is no exception, with a great illustration coming right from my home. My family couldn’t have been more frustrated by the election results, claiming it shows the ignorance of the people (going back to the illiterate argument). To me, it’s amazing how people coming from essentially the same socioeconomic class and set of beliefs can hold such different opinions about politics. Sometimes, we just have to be content and let politics run its own course, not letting it affect the way we live our lives. This does not change with culture or language.

Back in the academic world, all students are now undergoing the process of selecting our internship sites, where we will spend 5 weeks starting the last week of October. The intership will allow us to experience and observe many of the facets of development that we’ve been learning about in the classroom. Simultaneously, we will be doing research and writing our ‘monografía,’ a significant research paper that will serve as our final project. I, along with one of the other two males in the program, had the opportunity to visit a potential internship site on Friday. The village is called Yunguilla, and while it is located about 1.5 hours outside of Quito it is a completely different world. Approximately 40 families comprise this community, which operates a completely sustainable community development project with 90% participation from the inhabitants. Projects include a cheese and jelly production along with a tourism business operated through student partnerships in Quito. The landscape is absolutely amazing, which you can see by the pictures below. To me, more interesting than the scenery or the development projects would be the opportunity to live in a place where community is the most important aspect of life, not to mention completely isolated conditions from the modernized world. I will probably visit another site before making a decision on where I will work, and look forward to keeping you posted on my decision.

Most of the village is visible from here

One of the thrills of the transportation to Yunguilla- riding in the back of a truck!