Week 5: A Handshake and a Kiss on the Cheek

Tuesday, October 2 – Monday, October 8

As the weeks pass here in Ecuador, the small yet profound cultural tendencies are beginning to have more of any impact on me and my global perspective. But first, very warm greetings to all of you as I hope you are having a fabulous day. The fact that I almost forgot to start off this post with salutations perfectly illustrates a simple lesson with great importance that has become clear to me over the past week. How often are we in such a hurry or have so many things of ‘substance’ to say that we forget to extend a welcome to those is our physical (or digital) presence? The importance of acknowledging the presence of someone cannot be underestimated.

In the Latin American and Ecuadorian culture, I had been told and causally observed the importance of salutations. However, in a series of visits to rural organizations as part of the ‘microfinance track’ of the academic program and in my other travels over the weekend, the act of greeting and initial conversation made a lasting impression in my mind. Throughout the daily course of life in this country, every encounter and departure with friends, family, or acquaintances involves the customary action of recognition. Between two females or a male and a female, this entails a soft hug and a simultaneous kiss on opposite cheeks. Between two males, the action is a firm handshake sometimes accompanied by a one-armed hug or pat-on-the-back.

In ‘our’ culture usually a wave or nod will do, especially in large groups. Not the case in Ecuador- at times during the past week we would be in meeting with 10 or more people when someone would walk in late, but instead of the meeting continuing without interruption, we would pause so that the individual could make their way around to greet every single person. Undoubtedly, this act sends the critical message to every person in the room that their presence is more important than whatever topic is being discussed.

Most times, the greeting is just the beginning of a longer process of acclimation and general concern over the well-being of a person. How are you doing? How’s the family? How are you handling this rainy, cold weather? (The rainy part is true, the cold part not so much…) One-word answers are generally not accepted here. I have a friend back in MN whom I wish I communicated with more because of his generally concern for a person’s state of being. It sure is a good feeling when someone is willing to take 5 minutes out of their day to listen to how your day is going with genuine concern.

This past Sunday evening, I found myself in Cotacachi, a rather small town in rural Ecuador, after returning from a five hour hike around the rim of a volcanic crater lake (see pictures below). The events that transpired that night bring light to and expand upon this aspect of Ecuadorian culture. As we returned from our excursion, I took the bit of downtime we had to explore around the town and buy some postcards. In the postcard shop, the clerk struck up a casual conversation with me that lasted for more than ½ hour. It turns out we had more in common than I would have ever expected, as she studied for two years in Richmond, VA, the city where I spent the past summer working. What’s more, she invited my friends and I over to her house after dinner!

She also recommended a great restaurant that proved to be the biggest surprise of the evening. When we entered the restaurant, there was only one other party there, but it was a group of about twenty. We came to find out that about half the group was from the US and the other half was indigenous families, and they were partaking in some kind of partnership or exchange program. After they had finished their meal, which was about halfway through ours, the music in the restaurant suddenly got louder and the whole group began to dance salsa. I must say that although the music was a little load, I was feeling the excitement as salsa has become an addiction of mine since visiting some of the salsatecos in Quito. After we finished our meal, we decided to get up and join the party, dancing and sharing in the fun for nearly 2 more hours. By this time, it was too late to go visit our new friend, but her simple friendliness and outreach had made an impact on me. It was clear Ecuadorians were a people who put conversation and valued time with others above their concerns for time and schedules. How else can you explain a group of 20 getting up after a meal and dancing for 2+ hours? Oh, and by the way, when we left the restaurant every person in our group personally gave each of the 20 the farewell custom.

Halfway around the Laguna Cuicocha

Another great highlight of the weekend was experiencing the famous outdoor market of Otavalo on Saturday. It is one of the greatest spectacles I have witnessed in Ecuador, as the night before the streets are completely empty, but by 6am the next morning, thousands upon thousands of indigenous vendors have filled the streets and plazas of the town with spectacular hand-made crafts. It is a testament to the great pride, tradition, and culture of an important ethnicity of Ecuadorian people. The picture below does not do the size of the market justice… it is probably 10 times this size!

Other fantastic sights within walking distance of Otavalo

Part of the indigenous family we stayed with as a part of our Microfinance Field Trip

With that, I wish you a very enjoyable rest of your day, and send you off with a handshake if you’re a gentleman or a kiss on the cheek if you’re a lady.